Indian French Territory

INTRODUCTION

The southern part of India is a place where one can see a number of temples of all kinds- big and small, belonging to different gods and goddesses. It also happens to be a hub of historical monuments built during the era of different rulers, also depicting scenes from our epics such as the Ramayana and the Mahabharatha. Amongst them is situated a very different town which holds a very interesting past making it what it is today. This town is situated on the Coromandal Coast in an enclave in Tamil Nadu’s south arcot. It is known as PONDICHERRY, which is approximately 160 kilometers south from the capital city, Chennai (former name Madras).

Pondicherry is an Indian Union Territory which comprises of Pondicherry, Karaikal, Yanam and Mahe, these are four widely spread towns, the first two are enclaves in Tamil Nadu, where as Yanam is in Andhra Pradesh and Mahe in Kerala. Though apart, these places were made one because of their French connection. However Pondicherry now known as “Pudicheri” is the capital of this Union Territory. A Union Territory basically has its own government and is answerable only to the Central government in New Delhi. It has its own Chief Minister as every state has and also it’s own members of the cabinet. The laws and legislative regulations made in the Union Territory have to however get a sanction by the Central Government. Thus there is an Lt Governor who represents the Central Government (Centre) and resides at the Raj Nivas, which is the palace of the French Governor.

The Centre is responsible for the financial well-being of the Union Territory, hence unlike other places in the state (Tamil Nadu) the Union Territories have very low taxes, e.g. only 3% sales tax whereas places around Pondi (as it is nicknamed,) has to pay 10%. Therefore making it a favorite shopping destination of the metropolitan cities. Other than being soft on the wallet the products are of superb quality. It is known for its traditional doll making, textiles and silk industries. It also happens to be the birthplace of certain world-class brands in leather, pottery, aromatics, fashion and handmade paper.

HISTORY

The known history of Pudicheri dates back to the beginning of our era, as excavations at Arikamendu (lies to the south of the present capital Pondicherry), the famous archaeological city uncovered the remains of a Roman settlement, which existed between 2nd century B.C and 2nd century A.D. However, what is interesting are the relics found state that through the Arikamendu port major trade was conducted with the Roman Empire It was through this port that India exported silks, spices, birds and elephants to the Romans in exchange for gold.

Before this period, history is an unsolved mystery as nothing can be said with certainty. However legends associated Pondicherry to a great Hindu sage, Agastya. It is said that sage Agastya had his ashram in Pondicherry and the place was known as Agastiswaram. An inscription found near Vedhapuriswara Temple hints at the credibility of this legend.

History continues - at the beginning of the 4th century A.D Pondicherry was a part of the Pallava kingdom of Kanchipuram. The next few centuries had Pondicherry being ruled by many different dynasties. This came to a stop in the 10th century when the Cholas of Tanjavur took over and were soon replaced by the Pandya kingdom in the thirteenth century. A brief Muslim invasion and the establishment of the Sultanate of Madurai followed this, from here the Vijayanagar Empire took control of almost all of South of India and their rule lasted till 1638 when the sultan of Bijapur began to rule over Gingee.

THE FOREIGN TOUCH

In 1497 the Portuguese discovered the route to India and thus began to expand their influence by occupying coastal areas and building harbour towns, which soon extended more than 12.000 miles of coastal line. In the beginning of the 16th century they established a factory in Pondicherry, however they were forced by the ruler of Gingee to leave. Shortly the Danes and the Dutch set up their establishments, the Dutch however set up trading posts in Porto Nova and Cuddalore also. The Frenchthough had made their establishments in Madras and Mahe but had so far not ventured down to the south. The invitation to start a trading center in Pondicherry was sent by the Gingee ruler to compete with the Dutch. Thus on 4th Feb 1673, Bellanger, a French officer took up residence in a Danish lodge in Pondicherry, and the French Period in Pondichery began. Pondicherry was transformed from a small fishing and weaving village to a flourishing port town. The Dutch took over in 1693 and fortified the town considerable. A peace treaty was signed 4 yrs later between Holland and France and thus in 1699 the French regained Pondicherry. The English, however did not stop interfering in the local politics even after they signed a peace treaty with the French. This lead to a period of skirmishes and political intrigues, thus by the year 1761 the French had lost another half century since the French India could call Pondicherry their own (1816).

For 138 years the successive French Governors contributed by improving the infrastructure, industry, law and education. Able governors like Lenoir, Dumas and Dupleix expanded the Pondicherry area and made it a large, rich town. India got its independence in 1947 however Pondicherry was still in the hands of French India till 1954, as on 1 November the French possessions were ‘de facto’their hold in South India. Pondicherry was razed to the ground and it lay in ruins for 4 yrs. Another treaty was signed between the French and English in 1765 in Europe giving the French India, Pondicherry back. It was Governor Law de Lauriston who took the task of rebuilding Pondicherry. The next 5 months of hard work paid off as 200 European and 2000 Tamil houses were erected. However the English continued to show their supremacy now and then and so it was nearly transferred to the India Union, but Pondicherry officially became an Indian Union Territory in 1963.

SIGHT SEEING

Now that we know the history roughly, lets move on to enjoying this unique Indian town. The town- Pondicherry has a blend of spiritual aura, French colonial heritage, Tamil culture and a cosmopolitan flair, what more does one want, it’s all here in Pondicherry.

Lets make our way into Pondicherry, which can be through air and rail. However the choice is yours how you would like to travel. Buses and taxi are easily available from Chennai and one will be in Pondicherry within the next 4 hours.

A tour of the capital town of Pondicherry takes you through broad roads, but crowded lanes. One can see very few taxies and buses, however 2 wheelers are there in just about every direction you look. Also, here one gets to hear the accented English and Tamil and French of course.

Such is the influence of the French that till date one can see the policemen’s red kepis, in names of streets, spellings of names, signboards, in the statue of Governor Dupleix and Joan of arc, libraries and even in a few houses. This oval shaped town’s planning is very much French as the streets are aligned at right angles making it one of its own kinds of town.

Being a small and quiet enclave of Tamil Nadu it has imbibed the Tamilian culture, thus the festivals like Pongal, the birthday of Sri Aurobindo and the different temple car festivals – Virampattinam and Villianur (where in the deity of that temple is decorated and put in a car. A procession takes place where in the devotees pull the car with the deity in it.) are celebrated with much enthusiasm in Pondicherry.

Apart from the charming atmosphere, excellent restaurants and cheap beer, what most attracts is the Sri Aurobindo Ashram and it’s offspring ‘Auroville’. The other attractions are the beach, Government Park, Botanical garden and the museum. The Jawaharlal Institute of Post-graduation Medical Education and Research (JIPMER), is one of the foremost medical education and research center of India, is in Pondicherry.

SRI AUROBINDO ASHRAM AND AUROVILLE

The ashram was established in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo and The Mother (Mirra Alfassa, a French women who was a disciple of Sri Aurobindo). The ashram is a diversified spiritual community and reflects in the life affirming aim of Sri Aurobindo’s Yoga. The Sri Aurobindo education center is a unique center where the student decides what he wants to do and is learning in the process. Presently the community consists of 2000 individuals including 400 students. This center is known internationally to teach INTEGRAL YOGA which integrates the essence of ancient yoga’s with a new aim for the modern man. The ashram however provides for all its members welfare. The ashram courtyard has the mortal remains of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother enshrined in a white marble samadhi. Visitors are allowed between 8am to 6 pm.

The ‘City of Dawn’ as Auroville is called is located 10 kms North of Pondi-cherry. At its center stands MATRIMANDIR’ the soul of Auroville’ which is a place for quite reflection and concentration. Auroville is intended as a site for the manifestation of human unity in diversity. It was inaugurated on 28th February, 1968 when youth representing 128 countries and all Indian States placed earth from their native place in an urn, near the site of Matrimandir, symbolizing the creation of a city dedicated to human unity and international understanding.

BEACH

 The beach water’s are always clean, warm and inviting in Pondicherry where one can enjoy a good swim. The 1500-meter long beach, borders the town on the eastern side. The 2 main attractions on the beach are the 4-meter tall statue of Mahatma Gandhi and the war memorial built by the French after the 1st World War. However don’t miss to visit the more than 150-year-old lighthouse, which stands 29 m high, but further down into the water.

The GOVERNMENT PARK

The old colonial part provides a cool and lush green anchor around which most government buildings are situated. In the heart of them lie the Lt. Governor’s Palace, the legislative assembly, government hospital and the Ashrams Dinning Room, which is a beautiful Ville.

BOTANICAL GARDENS

These gardens have the most exotic flowering plants brought from around the world. C.S. Perrotet planned this garden in 1826. This place also happens to have the rare species of ornamental fishes.

MUSEUM

Started in 1984, the museum has a fine display of antiques apart from the sections devoted to archeology, geology, sculpture, handicraft, art objects and paintings.

Pondicherry also has some beautiful Churches and Temples. The Sacred Heart of Jesus is the most beautiful Church, something one would rarely get to see. The temples in and around Pondicherry date back to the 10th and 12th Century. Most of the temples are dedicated to the local goddesses of the village where they were constructed.

Another place that one should visit is Mahabalipuram, which is known for its beautiful rock cut temples build during the 12th century under the rule of the Pallavas. It has 14 cave temples, 8 monolithic rathas and numerous other sculptures. The shore temple also known as the ‘seven Pagodas’ are a part of the world heritage monument. It is said that there existed 7 temples on the shores of which 6 have slipped into the sea.

On a general basis the visit to Pondicherry is an altogether different experience. It is a place which takes one closer to their culture or rather know another culture. Also a complete fusion of two cultures such that of Indian and French will not be seen else where as it in Pondicherry.